Flagstone (July 5-6, 2008)

I had hoped to make a Squamish trip over the long Independence Day weekend, but the forecast was not good to the north. Unfortunately I didn't have any alpine partners either, so the weekend didn't look good for climbing. Henry had invited me for a BBQ and fireworks at his ranch on the 4th. The Denyer's were there too and they told me that they were going to Flagstone tomorrow. I had never even heard of this place and with my usual snobbish attitude I asked if it was any good or if it was a choss pile. They assured me it was good climbing with bolts and slabs but no cracks. Not my favorite style but hey it was climbing so we hatched a plan to go there.

Flagstone is basically a dome east of Eugene above McKenzie River. The access is via long forest roads. I was surprised to see how popular the place was. It is mainly a slab climbing area, with good rock. The popular routes are clean of moss and friendly bolted. The routes on the north side are almost over bolted. The routes are long and it is good to have a 70m rope or two 60m ropes to get down. I have to admit the climbing is quite fun.

Saturday turned out to be overcast which provided cool temps ideal for climbing. Mark led Hydrotube (5.9) first thing in the morning. I and Natasha followed the exciting first pitch and led the easier second pitch. Meanwhile Henry and Nolana climbed Acme Problem (5.7). We all converged for the double rope rappel down. Next I jumped on a 5.10a route which had a thin start, midway I got a bit off-route and it got hard that I had to down climb and correct it. Next door Mark led a 5.8 route which was stiff for the grade. From my route we TRed the next right slab which is another 5.10a/b. Finally before heading for lunch I led another long 5.10a route, a 70m rope was just enough to get me back. The route started with easy 5.9 moves and the upper section was sustained and cool 10a moves to a mantle before anchors. For lunch we ate Henry's left over roast beef sandwiches , yummy. For the afternoon we headed to the north side and Mark led the first pitches of Northern Ligths (5.8) and another 5.8 next door. Nolana did a fine job leading the first picth Toy Box (5.8). There we ran into Gent and John G. they came to set up ropes for their kids. It was fun to watch the kids play on the slabs, so cool.
We called it a day and set camp in the middle of the blocked forest road. Mark cooked up fajitas and with all the good stuff to go with.

Sunday we woke up to a misty morning but the clouds soon burned off as we went back to the crag. Henry and Nolana wanted to do Hydrotube (5.9) so we went to the far right end of the crag and I led the tenuous Deep Pocket (5.9), the first bolt is pretty high and required sketchy traversy moves. It was a wake up call. I almost fell at the third bolt as I missed the key pocket hold. After Mark and Natasha TRed the route we traded ropes with Henry. We ran into the guy who put up some of the routes here nearly 20 year ago. He recommended the 5.10b next to Hydrotube. So I went for it with a bit of hesitation after my so so performance on Deep Pocket. The route had really powerful and good moves. The crux came higher up when I had to do a side pull and high reach over the lip. I committed to the move but my right foot slipped and I came off, fortunately the route is well bolted and it was a short fall. After some thinking and looking around I pulled the move, very fun and exciting. I placed a blue tcu and gold camalot on the route, so I was happy. After everybody took their turn, Mark led another fun 5.10b to the right. This route didn't have powerful moves but was more delicate, also really good. Finally I pushed Henry to lead a 5.10a route next to Acme Problem and he did a fine job. We all took rides on these routes and called it good.

It turned out to be a great fun weekend of climbing on slabs which I didn't know existed in Oregon. Thanks to the Denyer's and Henry and Nolana for having me and all the good food.

More pictures from this trip are here.

Buckner NFace Attempt (June 28-29, 2008)

More pictures from this trip are here.

Wall Practice on Monkey (June 14-15, 2008)

More pictures from this trip are here.

Fred Beckey Sighting (June 7-8, 2008)

Splitter Camp of Oregon (May 31-June1, 2008)

Memorial Day Weekend at Smith (May 25-26, 2008)

As it is usually with Memorial Day weekends, the once promising forecast had deteriorated into an unstable weather pattern. So were the dreams of a potential Squamish trip quickly dashed. Another long weekend and no climbing, I never have luck with long weekends. So it was mostly yard work on Saturday. Later in the afternoon we walked to Laughing Planet in downtown with Sally and Andrew. Soon after we got back a huge thunderstorm and heavy downpour hit the town. Given the dismal forecast we hatched a plan to do at least a day of aid climbing on Monkey Face at Smith Rock and also bring Andrew's haul bag and portaledge to spend the night on the West Face.

When I arrived at Andrew's on Sunday morning, given the rainy weather and thunderstorms we skipped the haulbag and portaledge idea. We drove down to Smith in steady rain and wondered why we were so optimistic. It was cold, drizzling rain and the low clouds were hanging over the rocks. We still decided to drag our climbing and aid gear to Monkey and see if we can get anything in. Going over Asterisk pass with the heavy packs was challenging. The continuous drizzle had soaked us at the base of Monkey. It was after 1pm when I put on Andrew's wall gear sling and 4 aider set. He told me not to get into to habit of using a fifi hook, so no fifi! One hook and clip the first bolt off I go. After 5 bolts, cam hook move followed by a nut and more cam hooks and nut placements continued. I was fiddling too much with the gear and the aiders were getting tangled. Slow progress. Higher up I was bounce testing a bad red C3 placement when it failed and I took a short fall. Soon after that I was at the mantle move below the anchors. It wasn't bad once I took the gloves off. In the mean time the sun came out and it was beautiful. It had taken me about 2hours and 15 minutes to lead the pitch. Andrew cleaned the pitch in a whopping 10minutes, unbelievable. Once at the anchors he showed me how to haul, which needs to be tested with the pig someday. Dark clouds were once again gathering so we rapped down quickly and hiked back over Misery Ridge. This was my hardest and most serious aid lead ever and I enjoyed it very much. Thanks much to Andrew for his patient belay and all the tricks and mentoring he showed.
I used a dozen of various nuts (had two sets of regular nuts, offset nuts), set of regular aliens, green, red and gold C4s, two medium cam hooks and the grappling hook for the start.

In the Smith parking lot we ran into Stan and his clan. They invited us to stay with them at the Prineville house. We spent the night eating pizza and drinking beer. Next morning I really wanted go climb cracks, haven't done any cracks since Yosemite, but somehow ended up spending all day sport climbing on the Mesa Verde wall in on and off rain. Stan ropegunned all the hard routes. We climbed Cosmos (5.10a), Screaming Yellow Zonkers (5.10b), Moons of Pluto (5.10d) and finally Bad Moon Rising (5.11a). The climbing was mainly pulling/pinching and stepping on tiny nubbins. Not exactly crack climbing but given the bad forecast we managed to get some climbing in and had a good time after all.

Urban Cragging (May 17-18, 2008)

Just being back from Yosemite I was itching to go for more crack climbing at Trout Creek but nobody was interested. Then Jim mentioned that he was going to climb with the Denyer's and Henry at Madrone Wall. I haven't had climbed with Jim in a long time and even though had some reservations about climbing at Madrone because of its access issues, I decided to go anyways. We all climbed for a half day on Saturday before the sun hit the cliff and cooked the place. It was really fun and I say this being a route snob. I led Tangerine Dreams (5.10a) with a bouldery crux over a bulge but a fun route. Mark led a next door overhanging route (5.10c) which had a crack opening moves followed by hard roof moves. Jim led an obscure dirty looking route to the left. Henry led a bolted kind of awkward route (5.8). From Tangerine Dreams I tried to TR a severely overhanging route. I kept falling off but with each move I would figure out another move and try again after going back to ground. Finally I got shot down by the final hard move as the sun was blinding me. Later found out the route was rated 5.11d may be that was the reason and not the sun.

Coming home I saw a message from Stan wanting to go to Broughtons on Sunday with Tia for half a day. On the way out we picked up Andrew and went to the cliff. It had been a very long time since I was at Broughton and all I remember was what a hard time I had the last time I was here. Stan led a 5.8 route on the Classic Crack wall. We TRed the route just to the left. I have no idea what these routes are called or rated. I had a hell of a time on it and coming off several times. Then Andrew and I did Classic Crack (5.9). Last time I was here years ago I couldn't even start this climb. Then Stan led a route called Thai Sticks (5.11d, I think). It looked way hard and I couldn't finish the route as I came off on the overhanging part and couldn't get back on it. Once again Broughtons spanked me, even on TR 11s are out of my league. From Broughton Bluff Andrew and I went to hike Angels Rest to top off the day.

In the morning when we came to the cliff we saw a guy solo working the Classic Crack moves. He spent the whole morning trying to make each and every move. He told us he wanted to lead this crack some day. I was simply amazed by his determination and work. I just couldn't see myself doing this but maybe this is the way to get good at things. Or was he a German?