Just being back from Yosemite I was itching to go for more crack climbing at Trout Creek but nobody was interested. Then Jim mentioned that he was going to climb with the Denyer's and Henry at Madrone Wall. I haven't had climbed with Jim in a long time and even though had some reservations about climbing at Madrone because of its access issues, I decided to go anyways. We all climbed for a half day on Saturday before the sun hit the cliff and cooked the place. It was really fun and I say this being a route snob. I led Tangerine Dreams (5.10a) with a bouldery crux over a bulge but a fun route. Mark led a next door overhanging route (5.10c) which had a crack opening moves followed by hard roof moves. Jim led an obscure dirty looking route to the left. Henry led a bolted kind of awkward route (5.8). From Tangerine Dreams I tried to TR a severely overhanging route. I kept falling off but with each move I would figure out another move and try again after going back to ground. Finally I got shot down by the final hard move as the sun was blinding me. Later found out the route was rated 5.11d may be that was the reason and not the sun.
Coming home I saw a message from Stan wanting to go to Broughtons on Sunday with Tia for half a day. On the way out we picked up Andrew and went to the cliff. It had been a very long time since I was at Broughton and all I remember was what a hard time I had the last time I was here. Stan led a 5.8 route on the Classic Crack wall. We TRed the route just to the left. I have no idea what these routes are called or rated. I had a hell of a time on it and coming off several times. Then Andrew and I did Classic Crack (5.9). Last time I was here years ago I couldn't even start this climb. Then Stan led a route called Thai Sticks (5.11d, I think). It looked way hard and I couldn't finish the route as I came off on the overhanging part and couldn't get back on it. Once again Broughtons spanked me, even on TR 11s are out of my league. From Broughton Bluff Andrew and I went to hike Angels Rest to top off the day.
In the morning when we came to the cliff we saw a guy solo working the Classic Crack moves. He spent the whole morning trying to make each and every move. He told us he wanted to lead this crack some day. I was simply amazed by his determination and work. I just couldn't see myself doing this but maybe this is the way to get good at things. Or was he a German?
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