Flagstone (July 5-6, 2008)

I had hoped to make a Squamish trip over the long Independence Day weekend, but the forecast was not good to the north. Unfortunately I didn't have any alpine partners either, so the weekend didn't look good for climbing. Henry had invited me for a BBQ and fireworks at his ranch on the 4th. The Denyer's were there too and they told me that they were going to Flagstone tomorrow. I had never even heard of this place and with my usual snobbish attitude I asked if it was any good or if it was a choss pile. They assured me it was good climbing with bolts and slabs but no cracks. Not my favorite style but hey it was climbing so we hatched a plan to go there.

Flagstone is basically a dome east of Eugene above McKenzie River. The access is via long forest roads. I was surprised to see how popular the place was. It is mainly a slab climbing area, with good rock. The popular routes are clean of moss and friendly bolted. The routes on the north side are almost over bolted. The routes are long and it is good to have a 70m rope or two 60m ropes to get down. I have to admit the climbing is quite fun.

Saturday turned out to be overcast which provided cool temps ideal for climbing. Mark led Hydrotube (5.9) first thing in the morning. I and Natasha followed the exciting first pitch and led the easier second pitch. Meanwhile Henry and Nolana climbed Acme Problem (5.7). We all converged for the double rope rappel down. Next I jumped on a 5.10a route which had a thin start, midway I got a bit off-route and it got hard that I had to down climb and correct it. Next door Mark led a 5.8 route which was stiff for the grade. From my route we TRed the next right slab which is another 5.10a/b. Finally before heading for lunch I led another long 5.10a route, a 70m rope was just enough to get me back. The route started with easy 5.9 moves and the upper section was sustained and cool 10a moves to a mantle before anchors. For lunch we ate Henry's left over roast beef sandwiches , yummy. For the afternoon we headed to the north side and Mark led the first pitches of Northern Ligths (5.8) and another 5.8 next door. Nolana did a fine job leading the first picth Toy Box (5.8). There we ran into Gent and John G. they came to set up ropes for their kids. It was fun to watch the kids play on the slabs, so cool.
We called it a day and set camp in the middle of the blocked forest road. Mark cooked up fajitas and with all the good stuff to go with.

Sunday we woke up to a misty morning but the clouds soon burned off as we went back to the crag. Henry and Nolana wanted to do Hydrotube (5.9) so we went to the far right end of the crag and I led the tenuous Deep Pocket (5.9), the first bolt is pretty high and required sketchy traversy moves. It was a wake up call. I almost fell at the third bolt as I missed the key pocket hold. After Mark and Natasha TRed the route we traded ropes with Henry. We ran into the guy who put up some of the routes here nearly 20 year ago. He recommended the 5.10b next to Hydrotube. So I went for it with a bit of hesitation after my so so performance on Deep Pocket. The route had really powerful and good moves. The crux came higher up when I had to do a side pull and high reach over the lip. I committed to the move but my right foot slipped and I came off, fortunately the route is well bolted and it was a short fall. After some thinking and looking around I pulled the move, very fun and exciting. I placed a blue tcu and gold camalot on the route, so I was happy. After everybody took their turn, Mark led another fun 5.10b to the right. This route didn't have powerful moves but was more delicate, also really good. Finally I pushed Henry to lead a 5.10a route next to Acme Problem and he did a fine job. We all took rides on these routes and called it good.

It turned out to be a great fun weekend of climbing on slabs which I didn't know existed in Oregon. Thanks to the Denyer's and Henry and Nolana for having me and all the good food.

More pictures from this trip are here.